Done!

The riding part of the tour came to an end today as we rode to the beach in St. Augustine and dipped our front tires into the Atlantic. We have a celebration dinner at a restaurant near our hotel tonight to say our goodbyes and then tomorrow morning we all go our separate ways. For me endings and goodbyes are always a challenge. All the hoopla seems a bit too much to me. While I feel extraordinarily lucky to have had the opportunity to make this journey and have enjoyed so many aspects of it.....the comaraderie, the day by day close up views of the southern part of the US, the exhilaration of feeling such confidence in my strong body.....I hardly feel heroic. Lucky! Just really lucky!
And I am ready to go home and reclaim my daily life, build up my gardens for the coming season, get my grill set up on my deck, reconnect with family and friends, and yes....head out on my bicycle to enjoy some of the challenging rides in the Bekshires that I have not done for the past few years. Life is good!

One more detail I forgot....on our entire journey across the US we never rode in the rain! Amazing!

Hose clamp and duct tape

Just when you think you've got it in the bag life offers you a different option! Stopped at the SAG at the 40 mile point to fill up my water bottles. All was going along just fine. But when I cleated in to ride the last segment my chain jammed. Looking down it was totally obvious that something was wrong with my front derailleur. Walked back to the SAG to get an allen wrench to reposition and tighten it and discovered, with the help of Lisa (our SAG driver), that the clamp that attaches the derailleur to the down tube had snapped. Uh oh! Not an on the roadside fix. So we racked up my bicycle and I rode in to our nightly accommodation. There our trip guide rummaged through their tool kit and found a hose clamp that she attached under the derailleur clamp and then duct taped the whole thing together to the down tube. So I am now fixed gear in front with my middle chain ring but still have gears in the back. In flat Florida that will easily get me through the police motorcade into St. Augustine tomorrow on the final miles of the tour to the beach. What's amazing really is that my original Campy equipment has lasted through the thousands of miles I have put on my bicycle until today. I can hardly complain! It may mean that I will have to buy some new components when I get home....
Tomorrow is going to be hectic with the motorcade (about which I have little excitement), a picnic at the beach for the riders and who ever has come to welcome them and then a final celebration banquet for riders only in the evening. Then Friday morning a shuttle to Jacksonville airport for my flights home. The adventure is coming to an end!

Wild flowers

The ride today was 78 miles as I did it...which did not include a side trip into a state park with a spring fed pool. Several riders took that option, but I have learned that on a ride of more than 60 miles if I don't get into town and find real food I will be struggling at the end. So I headed directly to our motel, arriving around 2:00, and immediately ran to the diner across the street for lunch. Phew!
The first 45 miles of the ride were more of what we have been riding.....a two lane state highway with a shoulder and some traffic....and so flat that passing cars disappear into the horizon. These miles were rescued from tedium by the presence of glorious wild flowers....pinks, yellows, pale blues. Most of the morning the sky was overcast so the heat and humidity didn't begin to rise until closer to noon. The second part of the ride followed a bike path for a while and then some less traveled roads before putting us back on a state route for the final miles into town. Who knew Florida was so flat?!
More on fried pickles.... I have it on good authority that while it may not be considered a vegetable it is definitely considered a staple! Sorry for us in the north!

A one gear ride

Those of us who come from parts of the US that have terrain have a hard time imagining that one could ride for over 50 miles and never need to change gears....but that is what we did today. Not even a bridge or overpass to disrupt the cadence. It isn't the ride I would choose for everyday but today it was fun. Just sitting and spinning and watching the road go by. Very Zen!
We are all aware that our adventure is coming to an end and that this group of women who have become "family" to each other over the past eight weeks will be separating to go back to our normal lives. While there is much positive anticipation attached to returning home there is also now an under layer of subdued sadness at something so amazing coming to an end. Shared experience is such a powerful connector!
Three days of riding left to reach St. Augustine and the Atlantic. San Diego and the Pacific seem so long ago......

The beauty of fog

There was fog again this morning when we headed out for our 48 mile ride. Within the first few miles the fog was on my glasses as well as in the air so I stopped to remove them. The beauty of riding in the fog is that you can only see a short distance down the road in front of you. Not seeing what lies ahead you are forced to ride in the present moment. If there is a hill or a section with heavy traffic or no shoulder you don't know it until you get to it. So you just ride it and don't waste energy fretting over it. I loved the ride today. Even though the fog lifted about half way through the tone for the ride had been set and stayed with me to the end.
Tomorrow is our last rest day on this journey across the country. Although there is excitement about finishing most of us are also pretty tired from the past 8 weeks of sustained effort. We need this day off our bicycles and off the road. Four more days of riding and we will be in St. Augustine! I wonder what that will be like?

Who let the dogs out??

Theme song of the day: Who let the dogs out? Chased by all manner of dogs today...and my record of not having met a dog I couldn't outrun remains unbroken. I will say though that there were three large dark brown athletic looking dogs that I was very grateful to observe were securely inside a fence. They looked like they could have given me a good run! You think you're pedaling along at a good clip but when confronted by a dog it's amazing how much faster you can ride. Spontaneous interval training.
It was somewhat misty when we left this morning but it didn't take long for the sun to burn through and take the humidity and temperature up. By midday I had completed the 54 mile ride and was at the hotel and out of the sun. Yesterday I had some trouble with sore elbows and numb outer fingers (not my usual carpal tunnel stuff) but today, being more aware of flexing my arms and reducing the weight on them, I did fine.
I'm really struggling with the food at this point. I walked into the hotel provided breakfast this morning and knew immediately that I was out of luck. Lucky Charms or premixed waffles with HFCS syrup were the main options. A banana was the only thing available that I was willing to consume. So I rode 54 miles on a banana and a small can of V8. For lunch I managed to find a package of tuna and crackers at a convenience store next to the hotel, gave the crackers away, and ate the tuna with another V8. I'll be starving before dinner is served but I'll survive. Lean protein and veggies don't seem to be on the dietary map in major parts of this country. Are fried green pickles considered a vegetable???!

Humidity!

Today we rode 64 miles through some rolling terrain, working our way inland from the coast. Not a particularly long or difficult day in most regards. But today we got hit with the humidity factor and by the end of the ride most of us were depleted and very happy to arrive at our hotel in Crestview. It looks like the humidity will be with us for the next few days. No shortage of challenges on this ride! Seven riding days left......

Last state line crossing!

Our ride today started with a 45 minute ferry ride from Dauphin Island to the Alabama shore. The rest of the ride we hugged the coast, crossing into Florida and ending up in Pensacola for the night. The roads were excellent....most of the route either had a dedicated bike lane or a smooth shoulder. Although there was a headwind most of the day it didn't seem like much of a factor. Pleasant riding. Stopped in at a bike shop on the way into town for a little preventative maintenance on my bicycle (clean and lube the drive train, adjust the brakes, check things over) for which I was charged $7.53!!! I really thought I had misheard the guy. So I should be good to go until St. Augustine. All and all my 18 year old, much travelled and much loved touring bicycle has performed really well. Happy about that!

Alabama

After an easy 40+ miles yesterday we arrived at Dauphin Island off the coast of Alabama. Today is another day off our bicycles. Went out for breakfast this morning and then walked back to our lodging along the beach with three othes from our group. Lovely fine white sand. No evidence of the oil spill but several oil rigs visible off shore.
As the end of our ride approaches I find myself increasingly ready to return home. I feel as if I have accomplished what I set out to do....rebuild my physical stamina, see parts of the country I hadn't seen in a long time, enjoy time on my bicycle. Now with gardening season arriving I am eager to get my hands in the dirt and enjoy the late afternoons on my deck. And have time with my family and friends, all of whom I have really missed. I am not so charmed by either the physical or social environment of the deep south. And I am absolutely craving good food. The local options are often limited and involve choosing between no food and food I would never eat at home.
I am sure there will be enjoyable aspects of the nine riding days remaining. I will look for them. But once again I will be returning home with a renewed appreciation for the beauty of the Berkshires and for my family.

Another detour

With the weather forecast for the local area predicting strong winds, thunderstorms and possible tornadoes we rode out early yesterday. Less than 20 miles into the ride we encountered another detour and had to spend an hour by the side of the road waiting for our tour leaders so approve an alternate route in the van. After we got the go ahead I found the directions for the reconnect to our designated route ambiguous and ended up spending another hour and an extra 10 miles trying to get back on track. By this time dark clouds had invaded the sky overhead and wind gusts were accompanied by splatterings of rain....and I still had 35 to 40 miles to go. With one eye on the sky over my right shoulder I continued on, never getting drenched but a bit apprehensive. I had my eye out for places to take shelter if a real storm seemed imminent. At times the wind blew in strong gusts, pushing me around on the road, but in the end the weather passed off to the north and I finished the ride dripping with sweat due to the humidity but not soaked by rain.
Last night was another of those nights when despite being bone weary (or maybe because of being bone weary) I was unable to sleep. I got up this morning intending to make the 68 mile ride but realized I was too tired to be out there on a bicycle. So I saw this leg of the ride through Mississippi through the window of the van instead of from my perch on my bicycle. Tomorrow we ride out to Dauphin Island where we will have an official rest day. The weather for the days ahead looks beautiful so we should have a fun time at the beach!

99!!

Yesterday we left the old plantaion after a day of rest and headed out for what was meant to be an 87 mile ride. About mid way we ran into a detour. Sometimes bicyclists can get thru even if the road is closed to vehicles but, in this case, they were replacing a bridge so we were forced to take an alternate route. This added a few extra miles. Then at the end of the day I misread a route cue which added a few more miles. By the time I completed the ride my odometer read 98.9 miles. I was tempted to ride around the parking lot to make it a true century but figured 99 was close enough to count.
For dinner our tour chef prepared a meal in honor of my birthday (this has certainly been the longest birthday celebration in my experience).....shrimp jambalaya, corn bread, green salad and bread pudding with candles for dessert. Delicious! I declared my birthday officially over with the blowing out of the candles. But not quite. I received a birthday gift from our leaders of Mardi Gras beads....four strands in purple, green and gold. Definitely my style!
Today's ride was a mere 55. Even after yesterday's long ride it wasn't that difficult.
Tomorrow we ride into Mississippi. The end of the tour seems suddenly not so far off.

Crossing the Mississippi

We were all up early for the ride out of town yesterday, hoping to beat the Monday morning rush hour traffic and get in a bunch of miles before the heat of the day was upon us. By 6:30 many of us were on the road. Conditions turned out to be more favorable than the day before. Although it got hot we were not batling the wind hour after hour. The weather forecast included the possibility of strong thunderstorms, a bit worrisome, but they passed to our north and we didn't even get rain until late in the afternoon when all of us had arrived at our B&B. By that time I was sitting on a covered porch with a glass of wine in my hand! The ride itself was almost 90 miles, but without the wind it was not overly taxing. Near the end of the ride we crossed the Mississippi River on a ferry boat and then rode a few more miles to our accommodations. We are now officially in the East!
The place where we are staying is an old plantation that has been turned into a B&B. Several cottages have been built on the lovely grounds, each unique, some accommodating two or three guests, and a couple of singles. I am staying in a charming little single. Shortly after I arrived there was a knock on my door and the owner presented me with a vase of lovely purple tulips.....a birthday gift from Sara, Kelly and Lucia :-).
This trip has been such an amazing and challenging experience, and I am waking up this morning to a 68th birthday where I am feeling joyful and strong and very fortunate. Many thanks for the well wishes of friends on this day. I am grateful for your friendship and look forward to our shared experiences in the years ahead!

Louisiana: first impressions

Louisiana is flat, hot and windy.....but it definitely isn't Texas. There are swamps and bayous along the roads, and today we rode past crawfish farms and rice paddies. The wind has been strong and relentless, making a 70 to 80 mile ride seem much longer. Tomorrow we are riding to St. Francisville and staying at an old plantation that is now a B&B for a rest day. We are all ready!!! Longer post on my day off.

Last days in Texas

Our last two days of riding after a day off our bicycles in Navasota have shown us yet another aspect of Texas. As we approach the Gulf area of the state the terrain in flatter and greener. We are also experiencing high temperatures and a definite increase in humidity. Previously at the end of a day's ride our bodies were covered with a fine layer of salt from evaporated sweat. Now we have rivers of sweat running off of our bodies. No evaporation happening anymore. The road surfaces have been smoother as well, though we did have one stretch of exhausting chip seal at the end of our ride today. Guess we're not out of Texas yet!
One new feature of the ride today was the presence of logging trucks on the road. Some of the country we rode through was forested on both sides of the road. Other sections were clear cut. We had a head wind pretty consistently today for our 64 mile ride. It was most intense in the sections which had been clear cut. Nothing to stop the wind! Even though there was little "terrain" to speak of I finished the ride tired. Hadn't eaten much since breakfast so I was also hungry. Didn't even take time for a shower before running next door to Whataburger for a bite to eat. (I have been forced to eat a fair amount of really lousy food on this trip. Although our dinners are excellent and healthy we are on our own during the day as we ride and have to make do with whatever we can find. Sometimes it a choice like today between Sonic, Subway, McDonalds and local chains like Whataburger. I'm going to need a couple of weeks to "detox" when I get home!)
Tomorrow we ride into Louisiana and we are all looking forward to our state line margaritas as we enter a new state!

Perfect!

Everything about today was.....PERFECT!!! It wasn't obvious that that would be the case as we organized ourselves to ride in the morning. It was only 37 degrees when I woke up at 6:30. And the temperature had only risen a few degrees as we headed out around 8:00. But as the sun rose we were treated to a day of pure blue skies, gentle breezes and temperatures in the low 70s. Most of the roads were easy riding and the terrain was rolling hills through green farmland. Seventy miles slipped away quickly. No dogs, no crosswinds, no aggressive drivers, no thigh burning hills. We have had many memorable days of riding, but conditions could not get much more perfect than today.
Our amazing good fortune of not having to ride in the rain continues. I know that at some point in the future I will be writing about our first day of rain, but it does not appear to be coming up in the immediate future.
Tomorrow is a day off our bicycles. I plan to sleep in, get my hair cut, find an ATM, read and eat :-) !

Romp in the park

Our ride today started out with a 16 mile romp through Bastrop State park....a lovely wooded area with a smooth road that went up and down and wound around. It did include three steep but relatively short up hills which taxed the best of us, but there was little traffic. Great fun to ride.
The weather when we started out was threatening rain and there were thunder storms off to the west. It was warm and quite humid. As we rode through the park we could feel the temperature dropping and the wind coming up. We had a few sprinkles as well, so I broke out my rain jacket for the first time. As it turned out we never got rained on but the strong gusty winds remained for the rest of the ride. We had a 2 or 3 mile stretch where the cross winds were so intense that it was hard to keep our bicycles on the road. We then turned a bit toward the south and had the winds more or less behind us for the rest of the ride. A blessing because it was really blowing! The changing conditions actually ended up adding interest to the day's ride....something I probably wouldn't be saying if it had been a head wind!
Tomorrow we ride to Navasota where we will have a rest day. Only two more days of riding in Texas after that.

Why Texans think that.....

...it's the only state in the union? Because you can ride for days and days and still be in Texas! Our last state line crossing was a long time ago and we still have a few more days to ride before crossing into Louisiana. This is not to say that all of Texas is the same. The western part was dry, sparsely vegetated and relatively flat. The last few days we were in the hill country of Texas which was greener with trees and grass (rather than sagebrush) and definitely not flat. Now we are riding between San Antonio and Austin where there are rolling hills ands more population with ranches and cultivated fields and livestock visible along the ride. Also a noticeably high humidity (which will likely be with us for the rest of the ride).
Yesterday I rode 65 miles through nice countryside, although we did have two long stretches of particularly nasty chip seal. Today I felt tired before I even got on my bicycle but rode out as always. Sometimes after a few miles of warm up you find your stride and the fatigue vanishes. Today that was not the case. I rode 25 miles of a 92 mile day and knowing I was not good for 90 took the SAG in. Tomorrow's ride involves some lovely rollers and I hope to be refreshed and ready to enjoy them. (I've come to think of the riding in more urban areas as "junk miles" and don't feel particularly attached to riding them, especially if I'm tired.)
So tomorrow it's back on the bicycle. The weather for tomorrow may include some strong gusty winds (up to 45 mph) and the possibility of a thunderstorm. Could get interesting!

Hill Country

Today is a rest day and we are in Kerrville, TX....the half-way point in our ride. My bicycle is in the shop for a cleaning and tune up, and some work on the brakes which started to squeak on the descents the past two days of riding. Our first day in the hills was a totally wonderful day of riding with three separate climbs of moderate grade. Very fun riding with lovely views. Yesterday's climbs, although only two in number, were steeper. The first one I made it up and over. The second one, with grades around 15%, I partially walked. It is the first time I have ever walked my bicycle uphill, even when I was riding loaded! From here on out there are no more major climbs. I think our challenges will be junk yard dogs and humidity. Looking forward to hitting the road again tomorrow. Rest days are necessary on a tour like this but for me they are restless days. I prefer the days on the road!